Time marches on, and I’m (finally) pleased to report the completion of the Red and Black hoodie.
The Welt Pockets
The welt pockets turned out very well. I ended up using a piece of black fabric to square away the welt, as well as a basting stitche to secure the welt before attaching the zipper.
I used black thread for the seams, and red thread in the loopers on both serger and coverstitch machine. I wanted to make the serged seams part of the overall design. Plus, I didn’t have enough cones of black thread to cover both machines.
Cuffs and Hems
To make the cuffs and hems, I took the red rib-knit fabric, folded it, then serged the open end to the body of the garment. Both pieces of rib knit were cut shorter than the body, somewhere around 90% of the garment’s cuff/hem length.
For the cuffs, I first joined them with the conventional sewing machine to make them into a tube, before quarter-marking and serging. I made samples with two different lengths of rib knit. I also measured the size of the cuffs on a commercially-made hoodie to get a goal to shoot for in terms of finished cuff size.
Next, I topstitched the serged seams. The cover stitch machine was not able to feed such a bulky seam, so I used a twin-needle stitch on the conventional machine to topstitch the seams on cuffs and hems.
The results are mixed; there’s some waviness at the top of the cuffs and hems visible in the finished garment, as the rib knit is stretched at the point where it joins the body.
In retrospect, I rushed a bit through the front zipper. I taped it down with Wonder Tape before laying down the stitching, but it still turned out a bit wavy. The stitching was mostly straight, but did go off-course a bit around the pockets, where the machine had to stitch through a zipper plus several layers of bulk.
The real tragedy of the front zipper though, had nothing to do with the way the zipper was stitched. I had carefully aligned the zipper against the bottom hem on both sides, but the zipper length came out lopsided on top. The right front side is about 3/4 inch taller than the left front side.
I honestly don’t know how this happened. I think an error crept in while serging the front shoulders and yoke of the garment, possibly uneven seam allowances. This is the biggest flaw in what was otherwise a fairly successful project.
One thing I will do differently on the next go-around is to assemble the front and yoke pieces as a separate step. This will give me a chance to compare their sizes, make sure they line up, and correct them before serging them as a unit to the back piece.
I also want to look at the altered pattern piece I made that joins the two front pieces; I think it’s too wide with respect to the yoke piece, forcing me to do some easing with the serger that looked forced when completed.
At this point, I’ve deviated so far from the original pattern instructions I don’t refer to them any more.
The Gray and White Hoodie. And maybe the purple one too.